o Szentgotthard in Hungary, near to the Slovenian border, to meet with people representing Slovenes living in Hungary and to discuss how best to present their cultural heritage to visitors.  Then to Köszeg, just a kilometer from the Austrian border, to visit the fragrant Patkai Múzeum (the apothecary's museum) whose loft is full of scented medicinal herbs.  The 18C pharmacist's shop interior is extravagantly Baroque, and in the gallery there are all manner of startling and alarming cures.